bowtech guardian manual

bowtech guardian manual

That calculates out to about 72% let off. Where is my other 8% and how do I get it there. Anyone know how this is easily adjusted? I would be willing to bet that Ragin' knows the answer you're after. PM him or give Eddie a call on Monday. Have a buddy in Missouri that is suppose to give the me low down on the binary cams as soon as I have time.That edger is working great. Will be using it on my yard next week!I thought Feathermax bought it?On the Guardain and Commander, the cables are affecting the cables, which will not allow them to reach the full 80%. For drop aways on these two bows, it is said that attaching the cable to the cable slide is better. Just stuff I have read or heard in different areas. Have not actually checked my letoff on mine. JayBut for it to reach 80% would affect draw length. That isn't good.I now have close to 1,000 on mine. Although the strings and cables are great, they will stretch a little. Thinking about changing mine pretty quick. I know mine has stretched a little, had to reset the peep after a couple hundred shots. JayIt talks about the draw stop which the Guardian doesn't have. I don't want to change the draw length to have to set the let off.Installing the draw stop will shorten the valley and reduce letoff slightly. However, you should not be as low as 72% on the Guardian. As Jay mentioned, (most likely) your cables and strings are slightly out of spec thus taking your bow out of spec and preventing the bow from breaking into optimum let off percentage. I have not yet seen a Guardian get a full 80% but quite reguarly gets between 77 and 79%. 14.7-15.2 lbs or so at 70 lbs using the easton digital bow scale. This makes most standard drop away rests a little bit more time consuming because the cable will want to rotate more than normal while setting up to be served into the center of the cable.

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Also, there seems to be a little more pull against the drop away cord with the Guardians and to a lesser extent the Allegiance and Tribute when the bow is at full draw. I somewhat suspect this is one of the reasons why several of the folks at BowTech are fans of the Limbdriver arrow rest that does not require cable movement to operate. We've installed hundreds of Trophy Ridge Drop Zones on bows over the last several years and it has been out rest of choice. However, with the delay in production due to Escalade's purchasing of Trophy Ridge we have been forced to evaluate new drop away arrows rests. We are getting Limbdrivers to test out but we are also in the process of testing the Spott Hogg Whammy and the Shaffer arrow rest. The Whammy is a little trickier to set up but it does run off the up cable and is under tension at rest but none at full draw so it will not add any pounds to your holding weight. Hope this information wasn't too long winded.I used the dropzone last year before I had the pleasure of shooting the limbdriver. I basically had to take out a couple twists in my cable that attaches to the outter portion of my upper cam. This allows the cams to equal out when you tie a dropaway into the down cable. Tying into the cable slide will equal things out a bit more, but if you want your let-off to increase you'll have to adjust cable length out equally to get the let-off up there. CAUTION: DO NOT ADJUST TOO MUCH TOO SOON AS IT COULD CAUSE THE CAMS TO GET TO 100% LET-OFF AND COULD DAMAGE THE BOW Now that said, I haven't heard of this happening with the Center Pivot Binary cams such as the ones on the Guardian and Commander, but I sure wouldn't want to find out. Start out with half twist until you get your desired setup. I also haven't seen a Guardian yet with the 80%. Mine is right at 77%. As for the draw length changing, do you shoot a string loop or off the string.

If you shoot a string loop try changing it's length to correct what little difference you'll see by twisting or untwisting the cables. I hope this helps a bit. If all else fails try the limbdriver. I am telling you it works awesome. Dave I have no idea what it means but thanks. It doesn't help when you go to a dealer and ask them and they look at you like you where speaking a foreign language either. I am thinking my XT is simple elegance.Also try replacing you string with a VT or WC since they are zero stretch, but have a Bowtech certified shop do the replacement to make sure the cams get back in time.It doesn't help when you go to a dealer and ask them and they look at you like you where speaking a Now, Now, Texag93. You really don't mean that do ya. Don't shy away from your equipment just because it sounds hard to maintain. It took me a couple days to figure mine out and when I did, It was Stupid easy. Once I got it set up to my liking I haven't had to change a thing. I even put a new set of Vapor Trail Strings on last week and after I put all the stuff back on it, I didn't have to do a thing, but shoot it. Seriously though. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask! Dave Its 65 or 80%. No cable twisting, no guess work. Bowtech manual makes it sound easy. Well, they don't tell you anything, they just state that its easily adjustable from 65-80% let off. My let off dropped what feels to be quite a bit. I now have trouble holding for any amount of time before the shot. It also feels like the valley is less now as well. What gives?What are you talking about Toby, you shot a Bowtech before your Drenalin. Got a price on that trailor yet?He is a Bowtech Guru and he can tell you the little things to do to get your specs.With the valley as shallow as the Guardian's, I want all I can get. More than once I have come to full draw and had to wait for the perfect shot. That 80% sure does help that. I have an email into tech support.

Probably wont hear back from them until tomorrow. They tend to be very vague on replies so I dought I get the answer I am looking for from them. Duck, who is Richard. I may have to call him if I don't get an answer from Bowtech.Send it off and get it Crackerized.One of the things I was reading was a head to head comparison between a Bowtech Liberty and a Champion Diablo. One of the interesting results was that both bows advertised 80% letoff but both only made between 71% and 72%. Here is a link to the stuff I was reading: He spends a lot of time figuring out the ins and outs of Bowtech bows. I've haven't found a problem yet he couldn't work out. He's very helpful.Guess I will be trying this and see. Jason, to gain some let-off back you’ll need to have a twist or two put in each of the cables. This work can be performed by your local Authorized Dealer.I hope to get this straightened out soon.Begining to think that my XT doesn't need a playmate..and you Bowtech guys say Mathews shooters are brain washed. A bow shouldn't be this hard to tune and adjust. Any other suggestions?It really isn't that hard for other binary cammed techs. I've never fooled with the guardian. Does the guardian have timing dots on the cam. Does the guardian have the draw stop peg with the slashes that set the let off. Have you changed draw length mods since the purchase and if so the draw stop peg will need to be adjusted differently for each draw stop peg. On other binary bows if you want more let-off you just fudge the peg a little and you can have as much as you want. Are the cables crossing through the cable slide in the correct location (it can be above or below the cable guard, this matters). On the tribute they cross below. Since you swapped limbs I have to wonder if something that was correct before is now out of place.

ALL bows with cams have to be timmed properly in order to achieve maximum efficiency (even Mathews), sounds like you purchased your bow from a shop that isn't up on bowtechs, OR there is a flaw somewhere in your bow. I hope you get it worked out soon; sounds like it was never set up correctly from the get go.I purchased the bow in Bryan, had limbs changed out in Lubbock. They didn't seem to have a clue where to start on doing that, much less the process of adjusting let off. The Guardian doesn't have the draw stop like other Bowtechs do. Cables cross about cable slide.Glad I didn't shoot it that way. Thought I had it all back right after changing peep and twisting cables. After putting two twists in each cable, I can tell no difference. I am going to borrow a scale and check it.I'm not saying the pictures are correct either, but the two are not jiving, one is incorrect. A shop that knows what it is doing should be able to get you fixed back up. It sounds like it is all a matter of cam timing. Once you get it right your problems should be over. Once you get it right measure and mark everything so you can put it back where it belongs if ever this should happen again. I don't want to jump the gun on this, but it sounds like you took a Corvette to a Yugo dealer for a motor swap.To change them on mine, they will be touching and rubbing on the draw and shot. You are right about the bow shop. I wasn't impressed with any of the staff. I have nothing local or close. Wiz, are the cables suppose to touch where they cross below cable slide. Looking at cable positions and slide design, crossing above makes more sense but I am not an engineer. Crossing above keeps them from touching each other, below has them rubbing. If I take the cable slide off, turn it around and put the cables where they cross below, they don't rub as bad. What gives. Here is the bow new straight from shop with nothing done to it. Cables cross above.

Attachment 22878 The majority of the other pics I could find including bowwiz’s have the cables crossing above also. BUT I have found some below also. Which is correct? I dunno, (I should find out soon) Finding out which cable should stick out furthest would help also. One other item is the tied in drop away, if you are using one. Binaries don’t like the tug being pulled on the down cable. Too much tug and it will effect letoff. That is why the Limbdriver rest is recommended for binary cammed bows. If you are using a served onto the down cable drop away try if you can to untie the cord (depending on model) and let it hang loose to see if your scaled weight changes at full draw. The way I tied my drop aways in is the original way recommended by Trophy Taker. A small amount of serving on the down cable with the pull cable placed between the strands beneath the served section. This allows you to fine tune the drop without having to cut serving for each adjustment. Once I’m happy with the results I cut the cord down to where there is just enough to tie an overhand knot in the cord below the served area ( a little extra for later use if need be). On my Tribute I played with it until there was very minimal tug on the down cable at all (arm comes up at the end of the draw cycle). What little this affected my letoff was quickly returned by fudging the draw stop peg a little. I hope you get this figured out. (I' ll check in later, time to do a round and run some samples )Has worked for me. Usually it's where the bow mfg.Jason if you're over this way and go to see Wiz let me know. I want to be available to go with you. I want a little learning on tuning the binaries.Should no soon enough.Bowtech actually says to cross them above now. The pictures of the guardian with cables below are of the proto-types. The first guardians they sent out had the cables crossing below also.

The rest of the line with the exception of the guardian and commander are still suppose to be crossed below. The Guardian and Commander have different cams. JayWithout that peg on it, the cam is considered a 80% letoff. I checked mine last night and it is at 75%. I like mine where it is, but I have to back off the pundage a couple of pounds to get the speed down for 3D. So I might play with mine a little to get it at 80%. I have not heard whether or not the guardians actually shoot faster or better at the 80% mark like the other bowtechs do. Bowwiz played with his to get the 80%, maybe he can let us know if it helped his speeds and or accuracy once he got the full 80% out of it. JayI thought they should cross above. That is how mine are now. I saw the peg hole and figured it was for a draw stop screw. Thanks for the info guys. Will keep updating my experience. In fact, the Carbon Icon appears to be all but identical to the Carbon Knight in technology, specs and performance, with the significant difference being Bowtech’s PowerShift technology, which was featured in a bow report a few months ago on Bowtech’s (non-carbon) Prodigy. PowerShift enables the shooter, without pressing the bow, to easily switch between a Power setting and a Comfort setting. As the labels imply, the Performance setting produces higher speeds, while the Comfort setting trades off some speed for a smoother draw cycle. The switch between the two cycles on the Icon (three on the Prodigy) can be made by simply removing a small module, dubbed a PowerDisc, and flipping it over. In the case of the Icon, this can be done without pressing the bow. The draw stop, naturally, is adjustable as well. The grip is Bowtech’s signature side-plate-style grip, very skinny but comfortably rounded and, since the riser is carbon, warm to the touch regardless of ambient temperature. This further enabled me to determine how well pre-tuning and sighting-in actually works.

The bow was set on the Comfort setting out of the box, so that is how it was tested, though I did some testing on the Performance setting to see how it compared, as referenced in “Shooting the Bow” below. I did test at the IBO standard 30-inch draw length. They’re lightweight but appear durable. The Apex sight features four pins and the rest is the Octane Hostage XL. (More about the accessories later.) Fit and finish are generally excellent on Bowtech bows, and the Carbon Icon was no exception. The gold FlipDiscs and the red logos pop out sharply and save what would otherwise be a boring matte-black finish on the BlackOps bow. The grip is another. Not everyone prefers skinny grips, but they do offer advantages and I found this one very comfortable. The draw cycle, subjectively speaking, struck us as being Bowtech’s smoothest yet on the Comfort setting. The Performance setting is noticeably more aggressive but still remarkably smooth. As the draw-force curves indicate, peak weight drops off a little sooner in the draw cycle for the Comfort setting. Vibration and noise on either setting are negligible. I normally prefer a slightly larger peep, but this one worked for me with the Apex pin sight. I would prefer that the white ring on the pin guard be a little larger or brighter for quicker acquisition through the peep, but this is a minor issue for many shooters and a non-issue for others. The pins are bright, but there is no option for a sight light which, depending on your vision, can be an issue in a ground blind with a black lining or other low-light situations. The peep is not served in, something I would do prior to hunting with the bow. Setup is uncomplicated, and once set up there are no timing issues or moving parts that are likely to wear out or fail. Shooting an unfletched arrow through paper from the Hooter Shooter, the bow got near-perfect bullet holes from the start.

Given the differences in individual shooting forms and arrow choices, I’d have been surprised if no tweaks were necessary. The R.A.K. setup did achieve good arrow flight out of the box, shot very tight groups and required only a minimal windage adjustment to be on the bull’s-eye. The difference is noticeable, but, as mentioned when testing this technology on the Bowtech Prodigy, the Performance setting results in significantly higher speeds with little change other than a slightly more aggressive feel on the draw. Shooting at 60 pounds, the Performance setting reached speeds of 289 fps with a 385-grain arrow, compared to 273 fps on the Comfort setting. With a 500-grain arrow the Performance setting reached 255 fps, compared to 241 fps on the Comfort setting. Depending on the weight of the arrow, the Performance setting boosts speed about 15 fps. Shooters who want the lightweight, warmth, rigidity and other advantages of a carbon-riser bow, along with the cutting-edge technology and design features that have made Bowtech a major player in the industry, will find that both the bare bow and the R.A.K. Carbon Icon are great bows and great values. Comments are moderated before being posted. Please try again.Please try again.A touch of stretch, plus drawcords at the waist and ankles, keep the fit in check.FlashDry technology enables you to stay drier and more comfortable longer in a wide range of weather conditions and environments.A 2x2 wide rib-knit waistband offers flexible comfort. Stretch drawcord at the leg openings allows you to adjust the height of these pants for a personalized fit.In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Register a free business account Please try your search again later.

Amazon calculates a product’s star ratings based on a machine learned model instead of a raw data average. The model takes into account factors including the age of a rating, whether the ratings are from verified purchasers, and factors that establish reviewer trustworthiness. Please try again later. Leo 5.0 out of 5 stars First of all the sight was not working properly and I just couldn't get it to work even with the help of a bow shop, but truthfully I was thinking of changing it anyway. I contacted the seller and they are sending me a new sight which will go into my pile of stuff I give to people I don't like. The D loop was okay but I changed it to some harder material and the peep wasn't staying in line so I replaced it as well. The bow draws smoothly and initially was very accurate, but after I changed it and paper tuned it it got a bit less accurate. I think I need to change my peep again. I know it sounds bad but It's par for the course when you get a new bow. Just have to break it in and get to know it better. Okay, so It's two days later and I have already received a replacement sight from the seller who contacted me about it the same day. I left the Truglo Carbon XS on the bow and the only issue I am having is the d loop won't stay centered with my peep which is a problem I have with my Diamond by Bowtech SB1, and they are both automatic peeps. Yeah I have to stop and recenter it but I'm getting really good half dollar sized groupings at 25 yards. My assessment is that the Core is an excellent lightweight bow capable of taking anything I shoot with it down and it was an excellent value as well.From it's extremely light weight, to its ease of use and included components, you can't miss with this. I changed the arrow rest to a full whisker biscuit, I'm part because the fletching on the practice arrows I got didn't line up well the included hostage rest. First time shooting, after a few easy sight adjustments, I was hitting my own arrows from 30 yards.

I had switched out the peep sight. I had switched out the peep sight though and the arrow rest because they were inferior than the ones that were on my sons former bow.It was very easy to change the draw weight and length. I have a Bowtech bow (Guardian) that I use and know the highest quality that are in Bowtech products.I only had to make small up and down adjustments.I shoot it almost daily and I shoot at least 20 arrows at a time. I have had no problems with the arrow rest or anything else on the bow. I've taken it hunting more than once and shot a buck with it. One of my favorite things is that the bow shoots almost silently.I bought it for my wife after she expressed a desire to learn to shoot. The attached video was just something I put together quickly the first time my son went out to shoot it. He got a few tips from Mom and then did pretty good even though it's not adjusted for him. The video makes it look like the different shots on the target were from each of the shots shown, but they weren't. They were from a single string after he had shot 4 or 5 rounds. Still not too bad!:) The bow in the video is set to 35 pounds draw weight with 26 inches draw length. The arrows are 500 spine carbon, cut to 26 inches with 100 grain target points and standard straight fletching. All shots shown were from 20 yards. We really like how the bow can be adjusted to fit a wide range of requirements. We learned (this is our family's first compound bow) that a bow is very specific to its intended user and that sharing a bow is not very practical unless the people are very well matched (size, strength, etc.). After having the bow customized at a local pro shop, it fits my wife perfectly and she has really enjoyed using it so far. It's small, lightweight, and came with everything we really needed except arrows, a release, and a case. Of course we'll need to add knowledge, skill, and more arrows, but this package seems to be an excellent starting point.

We will eventually need to get more of these bows if the rest of us decide we'd like to learn too!Bow shoots accurate and for the price I bought it you can't go wrong. Just changed my sight to a 5 pin sight and it's ready for hunting. You might want to pick up a dampener or silencer for it while you're shoppingThank you diamond for making such a great product!!!Fast shipping!Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I was on ArcheryTalk and they had prices all over the place. The bow is in great shape and shoots awesome. It has custom strings on it new in 2010.Draw weight? Ever been dry fired. How was it stored? Ever dropped? And the strings dont really matter at this point because of their age. I would say 3-400 naked. But figure in the rests and sight 30-50 per. If you could get 500 id say u did well. Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire Probably would like to sell the rest, sights, etc all together. Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire Got 250 plus shipping. Remember it is a 6 year old bow no matter how good a shape it is in. Good luck Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire That IS the quietest bow built.even against the 2013's I had one.sold it, i didn't like the overall weight of the bow, i grinded the mod's down to gain little more letoff.if it lost some weight, no whay in hell would i have sold it!Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire You might get 4 bills from the right person, but unless you want to move it. I had to go down to 100 bucks to sell a great shape 2009 Pro 1000 Darton recentlyI picked up a PSE AXE7 last week on AT for 275.00 shipped. I don't think it ever had a rest or sight mounted to her.I had to run a tap through the mounting holes to clean out the film dip so I could actually thread the mounting screws in. No shock at all. Ever with uber out of sync cams.

I mean dang, the bottom cam is so over rotated at full draw that it's throwing the nock end down at the shot and I can't tune it out with the rest. I no longer have a bow press so getting that control cable adjusted is taking its sweet ol time. Sold my wifes PSE Chaos1 for 265.00 on ebay, and turned around and bought her a one year old PSE Stilletto for 385.00 off AT. Same specs, shooting 42fps faster for her. Oh, and it came with a ripchord code red with the optional pink launcher. She loves it. If you're going to sell on AT, it's going to go cheap. I'd try to find a local buyer and you may be able to get 300.00 if you're lucky with accessories. If you were selling on AT, I'd talk ya down to 150.00.I donated a Bear bow I bought back in 1999 just to get rid of it. Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire Sell it bare and sell the extras separate I picked up my '07 in '09 loaded but didn't like the extras, sold my '04 liberty bare and all the extras off the '07 and came out about even.It was a marriage of my passions for the outdoors and the internet. In late 1999, we started our first message board. It was one of Michigan's first social networks. Many off-site friendships have formed with others who share the same interests in the outdoors through the site. Thanks for your patronage - Steve Care to buy us a beer. We'd really appreciate it. Bow Shop Bible The Bow Shop Bible is now available on the Apple App Store. This app includes a database of bow specs, calculators, archery knot tutorials, installation and tuning tutorials, arrow building tutorials and more. There are over 40 videos and easy to follow text. Take your tuning and accuracy to the next level with the Bow Shop Bible. Check out our Latest Posts. Sign up for our newsletter. Get updates on new posts on the latest equipment reviews, archery tips, hunting tips and more. If it's the technical side of archery, you'll find it here. How do you do it? The web posted manual in my opinion sucks.

It seems very vague, and simplistic, no pics etc. I see threaded holes on the end of my modules (right where the string hits at full draw) but it just looks like there is a piece missing. Do you guys have a pic to post of the cam module area.Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.